In the heart of London's vibrant culinary scene, a new restaurant, Oudh 1722, has emerged as a beacon of Awadhi cuisine, offering a unique blend of tradition and innovation. Located in a historic Victorian townhouse near Borough Market, the restaurant is a testament to the rich Nawabi legacy, which began in 1722. This is not just a restaurant; it's a journey through time, where ancient traditions meet modern culinary prowess.
The menu at Oudh 1722 is a symphony of flavors, each dish meticulously crafted to preserve the essence of Awadhi cooking. The à la carte menu opens with a lamb shorba, a traditional welcome broth, followed by gol guppa, spherical servings filled with sprouting moong shoots and tiny edible flowers. These dishes are a far cry from the fast, spicy, grab-and-go food we're accustomed to today. Instead, they are a testament to the slow, thoughtful cooking that defined the Nawabi era.
What makes Oudh 1722 truly special is its ability to balance tradition with modernity. The restaurant features two distinct stories under one roof. The ancient one, represented by nihari, a dish traditionally cooked overnight and eaten at dawn after morning prayers, and the modern one, led by George Cooke, previously of Brat and Noble Rot, who brings a contemporary touch to the kitchen.
The layout of the restaurant is charmingly eccentric, with fancy murals and strategically hung tapestries. It's a very old, listed building that was once used by hatmakers and, at another stage, home to the restaurant Lupins. Oudh 1722 has seamlessly integrated itself into this history, rather than attempting to dominate it.
The food at Oudh 1722 is labor-intensive and styled with precision, but thankfully, it's still ruddy delicious and generously portioned. The Awadhi tradition was to incapacitate their enemies via slow-cooked dal Bukhara, and the restaurant certainly aims to stuff you. The enormous lasooni jhinga, grilled king prawns smothered with garlic and flecked with raw mango, and the mutanjan dam biryani, a mountain of fragrant rice with melting, slow-cooked oxtail and bags of sweet carrot, are not to be missed.
The star of the show for me was the ras malai, a soft dumpling of fresh cheese soaked in chilled spiced cream, laced with crunchy pistachio and scented with cardamom. It's one of the oldest desserts in the Awadhi tradition, and ordering it was a delightful way to learn about history. Oudh 1722 is a restaurant that combines ambition and sincerity with genuinely interesting cooking, and it will undoubtedly be one of the restaurant openings of 2026.
In conclusion, Oudh 1722 is a must-visit for anyone looking to experience the rich flavors of Awadhi cuisine. It's a restaurant that takes you on a journey through time, where ancient traditions meet modern culinary prowess. So, if you're faced with the rumored 4,000-person waiting list at Gymkhana, try Oudh 1722 instead. You'll be glad you did.
